Sarah Lohman is a historic gastronomist. She recreates historic recipes as a way to make a personal connection with the past, as well as to inspire her contemporary cooking. You can follow her adventures on her blog, Four Pounds Flour. In this series, Lohman will comb Etsy for items that speak to America’s culinary past.
In the 1780s, King Ferdinand IV of Naples and his wife arrived at the San Gregorio Convent to find “…a table covered, and every appearance of a most plentiful cold repast, consisting of several joints of meat, hams, fowl, fish and various other dishes.” The King and his entourage were bummed, however, because they had just eaten. But not wanting to seem impolite, they sat down, and Queen Maria Carolina “…choose a slice of cold turkey, which, on being cut up, turned out a large piece of lemon ice. All the other dishes were ices of various kinds, disguised under the forms of joints of meat, fish and fowl.” The King and the nuns alike had a hearty laugh at the joke.
I came across this story in Jeri Quinzio’s Of Sugar and Snow, a fantastic history of ice cream. According to Quinzio, before the 20th century (when gallons of ice cream became available in the grocer’s freezer) fancy ice creams were either made at home, or ordered for special occasions from skilled confectioners. The confectioners would mold the ice cream into fabulous trompe l’oeil displays, and the best were allegedly so true to life that a diner couldn’t tell the difference until they took a bite.
Digging around Etsy reveals examples of similar vintage ice cream molds: simple block molds for making layered confections (better known today as “Neapolitan” ice cream); delicate fruits, vegetables and flowers ready to be realistically rendered in ice; inexplicable items like mandolins and high-heeled shoes, and an unappetizing array of broiled fish and roast chicken molds.
After reading about Queen Maria Carolina’s lemon ice turkey cutlet, I began to wonder what flavor a roast chicken shaped ice cream should be. There’s always the simple solution of chocolate and vanilla, perhaps layered so you could carve a convincing slice of breast meat. But there were many more exotic flavors in ice cream’s past than one can find in even the most progressive ice cream stores today. Food historian Ivan Day discovered what is believed to be the first recipe for ice cream, written in a manuscript by Lady Anne Fanshawe of England. Dating to c. 1665, she flavors her ice cream with mace, orangeflower water, or ambergris. Ambergris is an “intestinal slurry” ejected into the oceans by sperm whales, much like a cat disgorging a hairball. A ball of ambergris floats in the ocean until it washes ashore and is collected. Throughout the 18th century, it was a prized flavoring for sweets. Its smell and flavor can range from “earthy to musky to sweet.”
If whale puke isn’t to your liking, Day gives another fascinating recipe for ice cream dating from 1751, flavored with Parmesan cheese: “…the Parmesan ice cream was molded into the shape of a wedge of cheese, with a rind simulated in caramelized sugar.” Day describes it as “unexpectedly delicious.” Here is the recipe, first published in English in 1789:
Take six eggs, half a pint of syrup and a pint of cream; put them into a stewpan and boil them until it begins to thicken; then rasp three ounces of Parmesan cheese, mix and pass them through a sieve, and freeze it.
I thought a sweet/savory ice cream would pair well with a meat-shaped mold, so I decided to give the Parmesan ice cream a try.

Sarah’s savory Parmesan ice cream.
Parmesan Ice Cream (1751)
Adapted for the modern kitchen
2 cups heavy whipping cream
1 cup whole milk
6 large egg yolks
3/4 cup sugar
3 ounces finely grated Parmesan cheese.
Combine the first four ingredients in a saucepan and cook over low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until custard thickens slightly and evenly coats the back of the spoon (it should hold a line drawn by your finger). Add Parmesan and stir. Place in refrigerator until chilled — overnight is preferable. Churn in an ice-cream maker according to manufacturer’s instructions. Transfer ice cream to a resealable plastic container and freeze until firm, about 2 hours.
Although I did not find this recipe as delightful at Ivan Day did, I wasn’t totally repulsed by it. The melted cheese gave the ice cream a rich, buttery mouthfeel. But because it tasted sweet, not savory, its aged-cheese-feet flavor was much more pronounced. If you think you’d be into an ice cream that tastes just like Parmesan cheese, then this recipe is for you.
Hungry for more? Read Sarah’s other Kitchen Histories.
91 comments
Megan from MegansMenagerie said 7 years ago
Hmm...Parmesan ice cream. As much as I love Parmesan, I think I will keep that in my Italian food. Sounds very interesting though!
Katrina Dzerkale from Dominna said 7 years ago
So, this is what will go on on my sunday :)
Valerie from valeriestitchery said 7 years ago
This is a really interesting post! I had no idea ice cream was ever made in food molds. I love the idea of it. I also love savory ice creams. I've had goat cheese and Parmesan, but basil was by far one of the best things I've eaten in my life!
agnes barton-sabo from BettyTurbo said 7 years ago
WEIRD! i love it.
Margarita Rat from PackRatJewelry said 7 years ago
Oh my, this is an interesting and yummy post! I always enjoy your Kitchen Histories, but this one is by no means my favorite post because ice cream is my absolute favorite treat of all times :D And thank you for the recipe too!
Ann Cosgrove from acbcDesign said 7 years ago
Very interesting! Fun to see how culinary arts have evolved over the years! That chicken ice cream mold is pretty cool!
Amy Gunderson from amysfunkyfibers said 7 years ago
We've got a local creamery that makes bacon ice cream-they sell out of it all of the time at the Farmers Market. Fun feature, the molds are really neat.
Linda from lovelygifts said 7 years ago
mmmmm Looks so good!
Nicola and Jessica Belton from CelticKnittingCo said 7 years ago
Mmmmm Parmesan ice cream,tried it once and it was beautiful! Will defiantly try and make it myself!
Rich and Dona from TheCottageMouse said 7 years ago
Love all of your posts. This one is a lot of fun. I have been to an ice cream store on Atlantic Ave in Brooklyn and they make all flower flavored ice creams. They sell well too. I would love to use your vintage molds for my butter....Thanks.
Oriol Nicolas from Oriol said 7 years ago
Love it! Looks tasty!
tasticlife from tasticlife said 7 years ago
I bet parmesan ice cream is really good a with fruit topping!
mirabellamorello from mirabellamorello said 7 years ago
Sarah, I must say you write the most interesting posts! You had my attention on two fronts this time, first because I too am fascinated with how food was made long ago, but also, being a fan of the history of Marie Antoinette, I was thrilled to see this post mentioning Maria Carolina, her favorite sister (they even looked very similar)! It makes me wonder what was written in letters between them, Marie Antoinette being a fan of sweets herself! And thank you for being so brave as to try the Parmesan Cheese Ice Cream!
FluffyFlowers from FluffyFlowers said 7 years ago
ice cream is my crack! I wanna try that lemon ice turkey cutlet :)
Roberto Buchanan from RobertoBuchanan said 7 years ago
Wow! Love this post!
Desiree from ArtDecoDame said 7 years ago
The turkey is so cute!
Jeanette from MaudeAndLola said 7 years ago
Fascinating. I love ice cream, whale puke ice cream though, will never tempt me :) Recently tasted a strawberry basil, quite tasty. Love those molds.
Holly from CamelsAndCustard said 7 years ago
I scream, you scream, we all scream for ice cream!
Christiana Odum from YarnDarlin said 7 years ago
Weird. I can't decide if I want to try that recipe or not. haha
ArleenDesign from ArleenDesign said 7 years ago
I bet this is really good:) In my country we have a cheeze flavored ice cream and that is one of my favorites so i know this is delicious!!!!
Dorothy from JewelrybyDorothy said 7 years ago
Interesting article!
Nerrissa W from RecycledWares said 7 years ago
I learned something new today - I would have mistaken some of these molds for jello, butter or chocolate molds.
Doris Mawyer from PostedProperty said 7 years ago
Fascinating post! I love learning new things about the past.
Jess Masters from RefinedRock said 7 years ago
The Parm ice cream sounds a-ma-zing!
LivingVintage from LivingVintage said 7 years ago
Cool. You're a braver woman than I am to try Parm ice cream!
Jane Priser from JanePriserArts said 7 years ago
I scream for ice cream! Wonderful read
Empress Jade from empressjade said 7 years ago
I frequented La Casa Gelato in Vancouver which has 500 rotating flavours, including some weird ones like creamed corn and red bean, both which where surprisingly delicious. Yum.
Peshka from Peshka said 7 years ago
Looks so good
Julia K Walton from FireHorseVintageHQ said 7 years ago
What an interesting article. People used to go to so much trouble with their food (well, rich people, anyway!). Hmm. Think I will stick to mint choc chip rather than Parmesan, though... :oP
Pat Parker from PatsPottery said 7 years ago
Yummy, now I'm hungry:>)
Rosemary Wascher from DarburyCottage said 7 years ago
I love the ice cream molds, I might just have to find one and try it. I think I will stick to the traditional flavor's though.
creativeclassics from creativeclassics said 7 years ago
My Dad loves parmesan but I think he'd draw the line at parmesan ice cream! I believe British chef Heston Blumenthal made bacon and egg ice cream a few years ago, in 300 years perhaps someone will be trying to recreate it :D
KarinLorenc from KarinLorenc said 7 years ago
I'm intrigued but lack an ice cream maker. I would definitely like to taste this strange confection though!
ClassicMemories from ClassicMemories said 7 years ago
The ice cream molds are cool.
Jessie Archambault from 1509Partridgeberry said 7 years ago
Ice cream is definitely my favorite food (group). Haha. I had no idea that ice cream molds like the ones you have featured even existed. That's the greatest thing I've seen lately! And ambergris...just, whoa. Awesome article, thank you for this!
Jennifer from CosplaysbyAkikoJenn said 7 years ago
Parmesan and Ice cream? I will probably try it, though I like to keep them seperate. But now I'm hungry for ice cream. lol
Giselle from MyArtAndFashion said 7 years ago
Delicious article! Thank You for the recipes. Very sweet molds❤
Deb Vasbinder from BabyCuteBaby said 7 years ago
Loved reading your article - ice cream molds - who knew? But I'll have to keep the parm on the pasta. Thanks for sharing!!
Kasia B from ShesGUtSSY said 7 years ago
Oh! This is very Heston-like. I love it! Might need to sweet talk my mother-in-law to make the parmezan ice cream... She has the machinery for it! Thanks for the great read!
H88255 from HillarysSuperfoods said 7 years ago
I LOVE ICE CREAM!! That recipe sounds interesting, but very unhealthy! I make my own healthy, paleo, dairy free, gluten free, low carb, low sugar, and vegan ice cream nearly every night! It is SO DELICIOUS!
Rebekah Timlin Meddles from LunasaDesigns said 7 years ago
I wonder if parmesan cheese tasted the same back then?? Maybe it was sweeter? Very interesting article! Thanks!
Bozena Wojtaszek from BozenaWojtaszek said 7 years ago
Love the antique molds, but ice cream - only in sweet tastes, please :)
Donna Kohler from TreadleLady said 7 years ago
If it's as yummy looking as the first photo I'll have a double. ;)
Yuri Pysar from Pysar said 7 years ago
such a yummy post! going to eat an ice-cream now :)
StillVintage from StillVintage said 7 years ago
And yes, I want some.
kim rhodes-thomas from pinksnakejewelry said 7 years ago
Wonderful Post!!! Great History on Ice Cream!!!
Ginger and Tim from PiccadillyPastimes said 7 years ago
Very interesting post. Love the antique molds. And I like cheese but not with my ice cream : )
Deeksha Lakshmi from TheColorWagon said 7 years ago
Interesting history of Ice cream!! The presentation of ice cream has changed so much over the years.
RedPoppySoapCo from RedPoppySoapCo said 7 years ago
I love testing old recipes. At the museum I work at we have had cooking contests for the public to test their skills at old florida pie recipes. Th kids had a blast :) sugar cane syrup pie was one of them. I bet it would make good ice cream too.
Amber from BambuEarth said 7 years ago
I LOVE cheese. Anywhere. In anything. I'm so trying this. ♥♥♥
mazedasastoat from mazedasastoat said 7 years ago
My local ice cream maker regularly sells out of both bacon flavoured ice cream & salty caramel... both delicious, but my all-time favourite will always be vanilla. Cheap vanilla ice cream is terrible, but if it's smooth & creamy enough it's just wonderful!
Amanda Gynther from CafePrimrose said 7 years ago
Very cool!
Summer Rayne Johnson from ALLTHATINSPIRES said 7 years ago
Love it!
Robert Eaton from aurazencrystals said 7 years ago
Have you ever tried Avocado ice cream? yum!
Ashley Spatula from AshleySpatula said 7 years ago
I love the idea of molding ice cream to look like other foods!
AnitasPottery.com from potterybyAnita said 7 years ago
Oh, I LOVE ice cream! I hope it's my last meal, someday, as it was my Daddy's and my Husband's. (Not to be a downer, but they both passed with cancer, peacefully at home.) Don't know if I could dip into that chicken-shaped kind though! LOL! ♥♥♥
Eliza Stein from elizasteindesigns said 7 years ago
I have always loved food that is shaped to look like other food! The weirdest ice cream flavor I ever tried was wasabi- I thought the sweetness would temper the sharpness, but no it did not.
Laura Hale from FoundBeautyStudioArt said 7 years ago
Hmmm...my green tea ice cream served in antique tea cups seems much less clever and creative now :) Ice cream molds, here I come!
Lorena Balea-Raitz from LorenasInkDesigns said 7 years ago
Such a lovely article!
glitterandstones from glitterandstones said 7 years ago
I love ice cream , I must try this unique flavor . Thank you for sharing
Ivy Starshine from StarshineBeads said 7 years ago
LOVE your blog and would love to follow you. Is there a way to do that?
Ivy Starshine from StarshineBeads said 7 years ago
Love your blog and would love to follow your blogs. Is there a way to do that?
CHRISTINE SHMISTEEN from TheArtOfFinerThings said 7 years ago
I love cheese. Ice Cream's great. I don't want them together!
Caroline Bee from SpaceMauve said 7 years ago
Love it !!!
Dianne McFarlane from mcfarlanemetal said 7 years ago
Great post thanks. I'm going to try that parmesan ice cream. Our local gelato store here in Cologne makes gorgonzola ice cream, a bit strong for my taste, but their chardonay and pear ice cream is fantastic. I don't think there is a more interesting topic than food!
Vicky Brown from ThisisLullaby said 7 years ago
Oh dear, I've just read the bit about whale ejections while eating my lunch! Otherwise, very interesting read!
Line Helene Domaas from EternalSnowCrystals said 7 years ago
Mhm Yum!
Diana from ourkidsboutique said 7 years ago
Interesting combination of salty and sweet...I know my son would LOVE it!
Maria Helena from MariaHelenaDesign said 7 years ago
Sarah, you simply have the most super posts!!
Kay from ArtMeetsLove said 7 years ago
It's an interesting article. It may be a good option to surprise vegetarians.
Natalia from Nikifashion said 7 years ago
Supper!
joan kelly from cosmiksouls said 7 years ago
Very clever and unusual ... I am certain they r all FAB !!!;)
Maria from ItGoesOnVintage said 7 years ago
Parmesan ice cream sounds like it might just be the greatest food ever.
Lisa from NirvanaRoad said 7 years ago
I've always wanted to try the black bean shave ice on Oahu's North shore. Love the creativity in food these days.
aressa from OriginalBridalHanger said 7 years ago
I love ice cream, but not sure about the unique flavors....
Caed Barker from FrogsFairiesAndFelt said 7 years ago
Cool!
krl2876 said 7 years ago
Love this post... I'm really glad that this seems like it will be a series. I'm looking forward to being continually fascinated!
Carole Fox from foxpots said 7 years ago
Weird and wonderful! I didn't know that ice cream molds were so commonly used. I also didn't know that fancy ice cream had been around so long. Wild!
Erin O'Rourke from Aruguletta said 7 years ago
This ice cream-mold thing would be good info for art historians. So many paintings depict feasts...what if they were really ice cream feasts?!
Carly from BokBokJewelry said 7 years ago
I think parmesan-flavored ice cream would break my fragile little mind. Give me some chocolate fudge brownie ice cream any day! :)
Gemma McLean from CelticShorelineGems said 7 years ago
I can't quite decide if this is something i want to try or not. It's crazy enough that it might just work...whether to risk it or not is another thing entirely! A great article though, very interesting :)
busybeecreates from busybeecreates said 7 years ago
Wow it looks really good
emberair from EmberandAir said 7 years ago
I'm going to have to try that Parmesan Ice Cream recipe! Sounds simply delectable.
Pine from GoodOldVintageOnline said 7 years ago
Luv this whole concept. The corn on the cob mold is fantastic. Gotta try something with fresh stuff out of Grandpa's old ice cream maker.
Donnie from DonniesDiscounts said 7 years ago
do you have bacon ice cream?
Amy Sarah Parker from ASParkerJewellery said 7 years ago
I have never seen, or heard of an ice cream mold, they look amazing and fun! :D x
Christina Damiani from BohemianBeading said 7 years ago
So few ingredients its work trying!
WoodlandCottage from WoodlandCottage said 7 years ago
One word: PEACH!
metroretrovintage from MetroRetroVintage said 7 years ago
Fascinating history and recipe! Ambergris has long been sought after by perfume makers over the centuries. Another wonderful and fascinating ice cream recipe is "Orchid Ice Cream", most often served in the Middle East. Thank you for a wonderful food history lesson. :)
Abbey Nova from gogoabigail said 7 years ago
I adore this series!!
Koren Kwan from GarasuWonderland said 6 years ago
lovely collection!