Sarah Lohman is a historic gastronomist. She recreates historic recipes as a way to make a personal connection with times gone by, as well as to inspire her contemporary cooking. You can follow her adventures on her blog, Four Pounds Flour. In this series, Lohman combs Etsy for items that speak to America’s culinary past.
On the day we now know as “the First Thanksgiving,” there was not a single pie. The Puritans had no dairy to make butter, and little (if any) wheat flour for the crust. Sugar was equally rare, and although there were pumpkins, apples are European and had yet to make their way to New England. That finale food that any American today would consider indispensable to a Thanksgiving celebration did not exist at Plymouth.
It took a few more years of settlement for colonists to assemble the ingredients needed to make their beloved European treat. One of the earliest recipes known for an American pie comes from a Boston manuscript: “Mrs. Gardiner’s Receipts, 1763” is handwritten in dark ink across a worn green cover. Amidst the lady’s recipe collection is one she calls a pumpkin pie, but could equally be named apple pie.
“Pare a Pumpkin, and take the seedy part of it out; then cut it in slices; Pare and core a quarter of an hundred apples, and cut them in slices. Make some good paste with an Egg, and lay some all around the brim of the Dish; lay half of a pound of good, clean Sugar over the bottom of your dish, over that a Layer of apples; then a Layer of Pumpkin, and again &c until the pie is full, observing to put Sugar between every two Layers, and all the remaining Sugar on the Top. Bake it half an hour, and before you send it to the Table, cut it open and put in some good fresh butter.”
Mrs. Gardiner’s recipe is typical of the time period, and it’s more beautiful prose than practical recipe: why “a quarter of an hundred apples” and not just 25? And just who was peeling those 25 apples?
In early America, apple peeling was one of those laborious tasks that called for a party. Neighbors would get together to peel apples for preserves, pies, and cider. During the work there would typically be some canoodling amongst the young people, and later there was usually dancing and food. It made a boring, repetitive task more entertaining.
I’ve never minded paring apples by hand, but it is time consuming. As opposed to fiddlin’ or courtin’, I usually binge watch TV shows or catch up on NPR while spraying the counter and floor in a sticky snowfall of peels and seeds. But this holiday season, I’ve added a tool to my kitchen arsenal that will make my share of the pie baking so much easier: a mechanical apple peeler-slicer-corer. When I sent my first fruit through the cranks and blades of my cast-iron peeler, it blew my mind.
I wish I could call this tool new or revolutionary, but mine was patented in the 1880s — 100 years too late for poor Mrs. Gardiner. The first patent for this labor-saving device was issued to D. H. Goodell in 1867. The important part of his design was the spring-mounted blade that allowed a cutting arm to gently glide across the surface of the apple, following its curves; my apples were prepared in a matter of minutes. I am always amazed by technology that is not only still functioning after a century, but is still practical and relevant.
I made Mrs. Gardiner’s recipe as written, with no additional seasonings (although I’ve suggested a few in the recipe below). I did use dark brown sugar, although a lady of Mrs. Gardiner’s standing would have used white. The finished pie had all kinds of caramelized sugar and molasses qualities as a result, giving it a taste somewhere between sweet potato casserole and apple crisp. It’s an excellent addition to your Thanksgiving feast as is, but there is also room for adventurous bakers to play with texture and flavor.
Mrs. Gardiner’s Apple and Pumpkin Pie
Gardiner’s recipe is great for a deep-dish pie, but I’ve halved the quantities for the shallower red and white enamelware tin pie pan I have in my culinary collection. Pie pumpkins are smaller, sweet pumpkins that are usually labeled as such.
1 pie pumpkin, skinned, seeded, and thinly sliced
12 small or 6 medium baking apples, pared, cored and thinly sliced
2 cups lightly packed brown sugar
Pie dough, rolled out into two crusts
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
Seasonings, to taste:
2 teaspoons mixed baking spices, such as cinnamon, nutmeg, etc.
1 tablespoon rosewater
¼ cup white wine
Preheat oven to 375? Fahrenheit. Line a pie plate with the bottom crust, and sprinkle with ½ cup of sugar. Lay apples on top, then a layer of pumpkin slices, and sprinkle with another ½ cup of sugar. Continue until pie plate is full, then top with butter and your choice of seasonings. Add the top crust, sealing the edges, and cut steam vents in top. Bake about an hour, until browned and juices bubble through the vents. Let cool overnight.
92 comments
kathy johnson from DIYBridalSupplies said 7 years ago
Love the pie recipes! Thanks for sharing!!
Kathy Johnson from kathyjohnson3 said 7 years ago
I'll have to make this for thanksgiving, sound scrumptious!!
Quality Handmade Items from WhisperingOak said 7 years ago
Sounds delicious. I just practiced my apple crumble (made with oats) and it was delicious. But even if it doesn't turn out so good, I would still try it for the spices make the house smell so good and homey.
kathy johnson from ShoeClipsOnly said 7 years ago
Love this post! I especially like the hand thrown pie plates, beautiful!!
Patrick from EdelweissPost said 7 years ago
Does anyone remember the scene in Disney's "Johnny Appleseed" from the 1940's ~ where they are all making and baking and feasting on various apple dishes and drinks~ These old apple peelers bring this memory back to me ~ The peelings are just so ~ perfect.
StillVintage from StillVintage said 7 years ago
I am not a great baker but this year I must bring the pie to the table. This sounds like an easy recipe.
Megan from MegansMenagerie said 7 years ago
This is one of the best inventions ever! I have one that my mother gave me and its so neat to use it! The kids love it :)
Pepitas House from PepitasStudio said 7 years ago
Very interested in your recipe since it calls for white wine. I must try it.
Billy Bubbles from FireIslandSoap said 7 years ago
Nostalgic - sweet!
Kirsten Gilmore from PaintingsByKEGilmore said 7 years ago
We had one of those apple peeler/corer/slicers when I was little. The best part for me was the the cutting comes off as one large, connected curl. Good memories. :)
Jeanne B from KOUSAsupply said 7 years ago
Yummmm......This makes me want to go in and make some apple crisp as I'm not quite ready for pies!
Margarita from RSunJewelry said 7 years ago
thank you fr the History and a Pie recipes ) I've got some apple at home - I might try this )
Erika Kelly from PortlandApronCompany said 7 years ago
I love how Sarah combined history, story, and recipe all in one well written post! That pie sounds delicious, and now I want a vintage apple peeler!
Ann Cosgrove from acbcDesign said 7 years ago
Love these food history posts - always so interesting!
Jason T. from PickaTat said 7 years ago
Great post! Photos looks so delicious !
MJ Toops from WetDesertVintage said 7 years ago
I love seeing the vintage apple peeler. For many years, I taught pre-school and during the holidays we could bake pies with the children. The kids loved turning the handle on a similar apple peeler to make "worms" out of the apple skin :)
Marta DQ from tribomo said 7 years ago
Lovely reading, thanks for sharing your story and the recipe!
Becky from wanderandroar said 7 years ago
I have one of these awesome gadgets! Great post!
Kelly Ellis from UniqueApplique said 7 years ago
Great post...love the peeler!
Jess Greenleaf from GREENLEAFblueberry said 7 years ago
Oh my gosh! I SO want one of those now! ...which reminds me that my enthusiasm for antique kitchen gadgets has gotten a little out of hand. I was very nearly coaxed into spending $30 on an unusual 19th century nutmeg grinder the other day...
Trevor Pratt from FrogInThePlane said 7 years ago
The history of this recipe is as flavorful as food. Neat gadget.
Phoebe K from BoxSet said 7 years ago
Who doesn't love an apple,peeler, corer,slicer. Makes me want to bake. I love that pie plate from ArtetManufacture. I've been eyeing it. Great post.
Donna Kohler from TreadleLady said 7 years ago
Sarah, I love your food articles. I am not the least bit surprised that a 100 year old apple peeler works well. I'm into old iron! Many of my antique treadle sewing machine ladies and gents work as well as the day they were manufactured, from the 1880s. It's amazing when a well built item still goes on and on, like many items today which are not built to last. A few years ago I bought a new apple peeler and my grandsons eagerly helped crank away.
Katrina Dzerkale from Dominna said 7 years ago
Thank you for the recipe.
FluffyFlowers from FluffyFlowers said 7 years ago
So neato. I love to read about food history.
Amanda Hoffman from AJHStudio said 7 years ago
Wow! So awesome. That pie looks super yummy!
VelvetRevived from VelvetRevived said 7 years ago
Sarah, once again, your column never fails to fascinate me! Having been raised by two people from New England, I had seen this apple peeler several times, but had never used one. I can see how it could make a somewhat tedious chore go by much quicker! I clearly remember going to my aunt's house with my mother to help her peel apples for apple butter or peel and pit peaches for peach preserves. Somewhat boring for me, but a chance for my mother and her sister to catch up!
Charlene Owens from charlenesembroidery said 7 years ago
I have a very similar apple peeler except I use it to slice and core the apple. I love to leave the peelings on the apple (organic, of course) to keep the slices healthier. If children are around then I peel also. It makes marvelously thin slices for apple pie, which I cannot slice that thin on my own. Thank you for your article.
LivingVintage from LivingVintage said 7 years ago
A great invention for huge quantities, otherwise I just do it by hand. A great Xmas gift for the home cook.
Deborah Keniston from geminijade said 7 years ago
Thank you for featuring my apple peeler in your blog! The blog was VERY enjoyable and the recipe sounds scrumptious.
Natalia from KMalinkaVintage said 7 years ago
Great story and awesome recipe!
fauxstorical from Fauxstorical said 7 years ago
Yummy!
JoAnn Hartwell from rustyhummingbird said 7 years ago
Great article - makes me want to bake!
RetroRevivalBoutique from RetroRevivalBoutique said 7 years ago
Ooh, that recipe sounds tasty! :)
Deb Vasbinder from BabyCuteBaby said 7 years ago
pie looks yummy and ....nice article too.
Talila from TalilaDesign said 7 years ago
Love the pie recipes! Thanks :)
Sara from UrbanFarmhouseTampa said 7 years ago
Love me some apple pie!
Amy Gunderson from amysfunkyfibers said 7 years ago
I have one of those tools- it really does save time!
mazedasastoat from mazedasastoat said 7 years ago
Why would anyone peel apples to make into cider?
Stacey McCaffrey from vintagejane said 7 years ago
Great article....ohhh...the pies look divine!
Aga from AgasJourney said 7 years ago
fantastic, yummy and very inspiring post. Thank you
Adrienne from DabAndDabble said 7 years ago
...rushes off to get some Michigan apples : )
Janice-Lynne Varner from FourBabyzzzz said 7 years ago
Great article. I love trying new recipes, gotta try this one. I have a peeler/corer/slicer and my kids love it, always need to turn the crank-they are teenagers!
kim rhodes-thomas from pinksnakejewelry said 7 years ago
Wonderful Post!!! Looks Yummy!!!!
IKA PARIS from ikabags said 7 years ago
After dinner we eat already :)) Thanks for sharing beautiful and traditional details !
Matejka Max from NattyMatty said 7 years ago
Cool!
Bruce Park from BruceParkArts said 7 years ago
That is an interesting pie that I will have to try!
Zeynep from ZeyJewel said 7 years ago
looks so yummy..
Brian McNamara from rarebeasts said 7 years ago
You're making me hungry now, looks yummy.
HandbrewedSoaps from HandbrewedSoaps said 7 years ago
I can't wait to try this recipe!
Keith And Olga from FishOutStore said 7 years ago
Sо interesting article. I love vintage gadgets...rust and patina.. you know)) And history behind it! Very delightful ambiance!!
Natalia from Nikifashion said 7 years ago
The apple tart looking great!
D George from GeorgieGirlLLC said 7 years ago
Thank you so much for the recipes! My job this year for apple pie!
Nicole and Jimmy Vila Chung from LuLuPaperie said 7 years ago
There is nothing quite as satisfying as a warm pie on a chilly night. Yum! Thanks so much for sharing the recipe! I would never have thought of combining apple and pumpkin, but it sounds awesome!
Lee Castle from SimpleeDesigns said 7 years ago
In Australia, we call the sliced apple a "slinky". My husband bought one of these fab little devices at a charity shop, still in the box, for $4 but it has cost a lot more in apples to keep my daughter happy! She can't get enough slinky's!
Lee Castle from SimpleeDesigns said 7 years ago
We call the sliced apple a slinky in Australia. My husband bought a slinky machine at a charity shop for $4 but it has cost a lot more in apples to keep my daughter happy making slinkies!
RapscallionVintage from RapscallionVintage said 7 years ago
Love this!
Rosemary Wascher from DarburyCottage said 7 years ago
Yum to all of it, good for the eye's and good for the taste bud's.
Amanda Gynther from CafePrimrose said 7 years ago
How cool! This really is my favorite segment of Etsy Blogs.
aressa from OriginalBridalHanger said 7 years ago
Wonderful post for the up coming holidays....Thanks for sharing..
Nicole from KarmaCodeOne said 7 years ago
mouthwatering to the core !
Julie from PurpleCowShop said 7 years ago
I love any post that has to do with pie! Thanks.
Samantha from DesignerPillowShop said 7 years ago
Yum! I bake apple pie from scratch for every family holiday :) It sounds so good, I may make it this weekend.. :) and again for thanksgiving of course!
accentonvintage from accentonvintage said 7 years ago
great recipe!
glitterandstones from glitterandstones said 7 years ago
Can't wait to try this delicious pie recipe. Thank you for sharing!
Leda Design from LedaDesign said 7 years ago
Great article! Thanks!
Salpie and Karena from HouseOfMark said 7 years ago
Thank you for the recipe! Gotta try this!
Anastasia from LAccentNou said 7 years ago
Looks very yummy!
beadstylin from beadstylin said 7 years ago
I now have drool all over my keyboard. Thank you very much! ;-)
Patti Trostle from PattiTrostle said 7 years ago
Thank you so much! I love apples and especially apple pie!!
Natalie from HansHolzkopf said 7 years ago
Yummy!! Thanks for the recipe!
AuroraHorton from EstateofAuroraHorton said 7 years ago
This looks like a great recipe especially because the apples are sliced so thin and I bet that helps take in all the spices! Amazing!
June from isewcute said 7 years ago
I make a wicked good apple pie, but I'm always looking to improve! Thanks for sharing the recipe... great finds as well!
Julia K Walton from JuliaKWalton said 7 years ago
Tasty-looking recipe! That apple peeler looks great! :)
Amber from BambuEarth said 7 years ago
I have an apple corer slicer but it's a little more modern. :) love that vintage one tho! ♥♥♥
Kelley from JadeWalkStudios said 7 years ago
We had an apple peeler as a kid, we always fought over who got to crank it!
Rachel from PeppersJewelry said 7 years ago
Great post! Thanks!
Pine from GoodOldVintageOnline said 7 years ago
Fabulous post! Great story, great picks! Can't wait to try the recipe! Seriously dying for the cast iron apple peeler!
lynn zou from HvZjewelry said 7 years ago
Great post!
Nicole from CarmenBee said 7 years ago
Love apple peelers! Makes it easy for some amazing apple recipes.
Lorena from ZephyrhillsVintage said 7 years ago
Yummm!! Love vintage small appliances as well....they were made last forever
Helen Mills from 1820BagCo said 7 years ago
Thanks for sharing, maybe time to try out a new pie recipe....
Katrina Balling from ballandchain said 7 years ago
my step mom has one of these, as a kid no apple tasted better than one that spiral cut & peeled! such fun.
8point8 from ThinkEco2 said 7 years ago
Sweet recipes....love the apple pie in the jar!
Anemone from AnemoneReadsVintage said 7 years ago
love old kitchen equipment
katherine Lenz from 214EVER said 7 years ago
so convenient. But now i just see my saliva running out of my mouth to see such delicious food! LOL
Mary from MarySanzJewelry said 7 years ago
Yummy :) Thank you for the recipe!
Lisa Brown from BrownSugarShop said 7 years ago
that look sooo delicious!
Jennifer Presler from IlluminativeHarvest said 7 years ago
great story
Koren Kwan from GarasuWonderland said 6 years ago
looks yummy!
james said 1 year ago
Looking nice wanna try to taste it.
BoxesMe from BoxesMe said 1 year ago
Thanks for Sharing this article, I really impress your work.